CorkSavvy

Adolfo Folonari is the fifth generation in his family to be a part of the wine industry. He spent his childhood on the vineyards of his family's estates. Adolfo is a true lover of Italian wines and has shared some of his insights with CorkSavvy. 

What knowledge do you believe you gained from growing up in a prominent wine family?
Growing up in a family with a deep and wide wine growing and viticulture experience has been fundamental to my development in the wine business. One could say that I inherited, from a very young age, a deep love and respect for wine. Each and every member of my family has been deeply involved in different aspects of the winery. They all had, and continue to have, a deep sense of purpose and enjoyment in what we do. Their love for winemaking and viticulture has been the strongest testimony I could ever receive. Because of that, I never got the impression about winemaking as a work, but more as I was just following my DNA and doing what came naturally to me.

What advantages have you derived from spending your life immersed in a wine culture?
Well, I started playing with grapes when I was still a child. I remember my father being pretty concerned when I rode a tractor for the first time: I was only 13! Already at that time I could sense how important agriculture was for our people and those who were living in the countryside. I have been fortunate to be a part of a family that sees the soul and culture of wine, and passes on the knowledge of how wine relates with the history, culture and passion of my family.  

How has the wine industry in Italy changed since you have been a part of it?
A lot. I’ve seen the Italian wine since the late Seventies evolving significantly: at that time, in Tuscany many wineries were searching for something different and studying to create so called Supertuscans, wines produced also with international varieties and using small barrels for aging. It was an interesting and exciting period but there was still more progress needed since at that time wine was still considered “food”, and high quality wines were not as common as today. The current time is even more exciting given all the progress done. In these days, there is a large number of excellent Italian wines, especially in Tuscany, both from the traditional side – I mean, wines based on the Sangiovese grape - and wines produces with a more modern style, for instance wines made up with new techniques, different grapes etc.

Since the United States is your biggest export market, do you tailor the winemaking on any of your wines to appeal more to the American palate?
Not really. We often hear that many of the new style wines are tailored to please the American palate. What is interesting is that some of the wines we make are complex, inky and with more wood, yet keeping the elegance and balance intact; if that is considered appealing to the American palate, then it is fine. On the other hand, wines that are also stereotyped as appealing to American palate are also often too inky, with too much wood and a bit too sweet, which this is not the winemaking style of Ruffino.

We consider elegance, balance and drinkability as the most important characteristics in our wines. In other words, we try to express the best qualities from every grape we cultivate in our vineyards. Here in Tuscany, the Sangiovese grape is growing very well and it is achieving great results with its gentle flavor, its fresh acidity and its elegance, for instance, our Riserva Ducale. Our aim remains to highlight the uniqueness of the Sangiovese grape, while also producing something new and different. Two examples that come to mind are the Modus, a blend of 50% Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and the Romitorio di Santedame, a wine made with the meeting of an antique traditional Italian grape, Colorino, with 40% Merlot.

If the American consumer appreciates our kind of style and “mission”, we are more than happy to appease them!

Which of the Ruffino wines do you think deserves the greatest recognition?
Well, I would say the Chianti, the Riserva Ducale and the Romitorio di Santedame, to name just a few. The reasons for each wine are different. Ruffino was founded in 1877 and the Chianti Ruffino was one of the first Chiantis shipped to the USA.

The Riserva Ducale is probably one of the most well-known Italian fine red wines in the world and of course in the USA: a great expression of a Tuscan Sangiovese wine.  The first vintage of Riserva Ducale was in 1927, a period during which wine was usually considered just like another agricultural produce and mainly as a part of the meal. With Riserva Ducale we were among the first producers to focus on high quality wines.

Finally, the Romitorio di Santedame, first produced in 1990, is one of the symbols of a new challenge at Ruffino.  While I have mentioned these three wines, it is still difficult to pick, it is much like asking a father to pick his favorite son!

With all your years of experience, what would you suggest is the best way for our readers to expand their knowledge and appreciation of Italian wines?
I’m only 49! I think reading magazines like CorkSavvy could be useful but it is crucial to constantly explore the world of wine in order to discover and define your own “personality”. Regarding Italian wine, I would suggest to start from the wines made with traditional grapes from the different DOCG appellations like, in Tuscany, the Sangiovese grape from Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano or, in Piedmont, the Nebbiolo grape from Barolo and Barbaresco. IGTs are very interesting as well and made sometimes with international grapes.

Are your vineyards exclusively in Tuscany or in other parts of Italy, as well?
Even if the vineyards of Ruffino are predominantly in Tuscany, having started in the late Forties with the acquisition of vineyards not only in Chianti and Chianti Classico areas, but also in Montalcino and Montepulciano appellations. Since 2001, Ruffino has had a beautiful estate outside of Tuscany, in a region called Friuli, within the prestigious Collio appellation. The name of the estate is Borgo Conventi, where we produce Pinot Grigio, Friulano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Merlot among some other varietals.

Do the grapes, land and climate differ among your different vineyards?
Absolutely, and I think that this is one of the most charming values of Tuscan viticulture. Every single area of Tuscany expresses a unique terroir, from a variety of different climate conditions, soil compositions, altitudes, etc. Sangiovese is the perfect expression of all this diversity, because it is such a versatile grape. Think about our Brunello di Montalcino from the Greppone Mazzi estate, or our Chianti Classico from the Santedame estate, or our Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from the Lodola Nuova estate Nobile: they are all made with Sangiovese from estates that are pretty close to each other, let’s say 20-30 miles, but the wines express completely different characteristics due to the manifestation of Sangiovese in the different terroirs.   

What are some tips you can tell our readers who want to visit wineries in Italy?
Italy is a wonderful country. Every vineyard, each producer is very close to small, quaint cities full of art and history. My only suggestion is to take your time and not rush through a lot of visits. Italy’s infinite gems are best experienced “slowly.” And, if you are afraid to get lost, a navigation system may help sometimes!

What are some of your favorite food pairings with Ruffino wines?
First of all I have to say that Tuscan wines are extremely food friendly, especially the Sangiovese based wines.  The basic characteristics of Sangiovese, round tannins and fresh acidity provide a natural “palate cleanser” that cuts through the fattiness of most foods.  If I had to pick one pairing, one of my favorites is our Sangiovese based Il Ducale paired with Florentine steak. A twist on a classic pairing that is, in my opinion, simply wonderful! Cheers!