Bordeaux Luxury at a Better Price
Often over-hyped and overpriced, Bordeaux has a tendency to turn people off when a bottle makes a dent in the wallet that the wine can’t justify. So why do these bottles continue to be some of the most coveted on the planet? Because, to paraphrase an old nursery rhyme, when they’re good, they’re very, very good.
The wines of the Bordeaux region--both red and white--are made by blending several grapes. The best of these are rich, complex and best after several years of aging. Sorting out the good from the horrid is complicated by an archaic rating system that originated during the time of Napoleon. Known as the 1855 classification, this system rates winemakers (called chateaux) of the Médoc region according to how much their bottles cost over 150 years ago. Those who earned top Francs that year were given the rank "first growth" and, because of that rating, can still demand huge sums of cash. Other producers who were stamped with lower rankings of second through fifth growths.
Times have changed since Napoleon’s reign. Some winemakers have gotten better, some worse, and some new ones have popped up, as well. Also, the ranking system does not apply to the remainder of the Bordeaux region outside of Médoc. This is good news if you’re willing to drink something other than the top-tier wines, because other producers often (thought not always) make better, cheaper wines than their top-ranking comrades. A bottle of top-tier Bordeaux will likely cost your hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars, while other very good bottles can easily cost between thirty and one-hundred bucks. A few to try:
For a truly fabulous red Bordeaux, look for Ch. Peby Faugeres St Emilion 2001. At $100 a bottle it’s pricey, but it won’t have you reaching into your 401K.
Château Pichon-Longueville-Baron Pauillac 2004 is another fantastic find at $90 a bottle.
On a budget? At $40, Chateau de Pez Saint-Estephe 2004 won’t disappoint.
While much of the hype surrounding Bordeaux is about reds, don’t forget about the whites, which can be fantastic when made right. Château de Launay Blanc 2004, $30, is lively, complex and a steal compared to its red counterparts. --J.L.
