CorkSavvy

Scott McWilliams, sixth generation winemaker, is one of the young tastemakers in the wine industry today. He is upholding the reputation of McWilliams Wines as the Most Award Winning Winery in Australia. Not only is Scott in the fields picking grapes during the harvest, he travels around the world promoting McWilliams Wines. CorkSavvy was delighted to talk to the young and spirited winemaker.

How and when did you decide to become a part of the family wine business?
I was 19 and I was working in Bordeaux for a French winery in 1994. I had worked for McWilliam’s before during school holidays for pocket money but I had never experienced a complete harvest. At that age I was mature enough to appreciate what was required to make good wine, and working for another company gave me more insight and extended my thirst for knowledge of the industry. After this I arrived home and started my tertiary studies. To help pay the rent I got a job in a fine wine shop. It was this moment that solidified my choice to become a winemaker for my family.

Has growing up on a vineyard helped to develop your taste as a winemaker and give you an advantage over others that didn't have the exposure at such a young age?
Although I grew up in a winemaking family, my parents never pushed me into the job. They let me have a relatively normal upbringing. So what I learned at a young age was so elementary that any adult newcomer would be able comprehend it in no time at all.

What are some of the tasks that you do as a winemaker behind the scenes that you think people may be interested in?
Winemakers are usually multi-skilled and highly motivated people. My job ranges from tasting grapes for ripeness levels, to hosting visitors at the winery. I get my hands dirty so to speak part of the time, especially during harvest when I can be covered in sticky grape juice. Other times, I am wearing a suit presenting to hundreds of people at a dinner or the like.

Does keeping the business in family for so many generations impact the quality and consistency of your wines compared to others in your region?
I am the sixth generation, so I have a wonderful legacy to uphold. I think our age does set us apart from our competition with regard to wine quality and consistency primarily because we have well established old vines and a great understanding of how to handle the fruit to get the best results. My forefathers have a wealth of knowledge and have built our wineries aiming to maximize wine quality. I always tell people that my name is on the bottle, so I make sure that what is in the bottle is the best I can possibly do.

What is your favorite wine in your collection? And why?
I have one of the last bottles of 1968 McWilliam’s Hanwood Cabernet Sauvignon, which I will never drink. The first time I tried this wine I nearly fell off my chair, it was that good. Making wine 40 years ago was very different than today, and I can fully appreciate how “hands on” it was back then. The fact that a wine this good was made before the winery had technology like refrigeration astounds me. 

How has the changing climate and recent droughts effected your winemaking in the last couple of years?
Any climate change skeptic should come and live in my town for a while. Yes, the climatic conditions have changed, and the recent drought is certainly a result of that. Water is of major concern for all of rural Australia. As a winemaker I am always making decisions based on what mother nature deals up. For years now we have had to adapt and be smart about where we grow grapes. I am lucky since I get to make wine from grapes grown in many different climates spread across Australia. This helps me keep consistency in my product. If grape growing conditions are unfavorable in one region in one year, then I have all the other regions to utilize to maintain quality. This is a huge competitive advantage for McWilliam’s in these times of climatic change.

Have you seen a difference in wine preference (in style and flavor) between the different markets in which you export?
Yes, there is a big difference. For example, Europeans prefer dry styles of wine to accompany food. In the US, the taste preference is generally for wine with noticeable sweetness or fruitiness.

Have you found Asia to be a welcoming market for your wines? If so, what are their preferences?
Asia is a very interesting market. Generally, they prefer quite sweet, lighter styles. Our marketing in those countries is very different compared to the US or Europe. It is still a young market for us. My wines have been sold there for some time, and are doing quite well.

Can you share with our readers some of your personal favorite foods to pair with McWilliams wines?
I’ll be honest, my favorite food is gourmet pizza, and all of my red wines in the McWilliam’s Hanwood Estate are enjoyable with a delicious pizza. Or you can try my Shiraz with a juicy pepper steak or my Chardonnay with some plump chicken breast and white sauce. All my wines have food pairing suggestions on the back label, but don’t be afraid to mix it up a little. I say drink whatever you want with whatever food you want; the main thing is that you enjoy the moment.

Many readers have express interest in participating in grape harvests; do you offer this experience at McWilliams?
Absolutely. In fact, we welcome international visitors who want to come and pick grapes during harvest, as it is quite a unique experience. Hard work, but very rewarding. If anyone is interested, they should visit www.mcwilliamswines.com.